40mm Grenade Maintenance Part 1

This excellent information comes to us from Coop on the Operation Eastwind forum. Many thanks to Coop for his time in figuring this all out and for allowing TMP to post it here!

Coop shares:

I seem to have developed a knack for this, so I decided to share through interpretive dance… or my usual medium: a long winded post full of photos.  With that, let’s get to it-

Over the course of the work week marathon, I inherited the box of 40mm grenades used by the WARPAC camp.  Now one might say, ya’ll have never seen us run an underbarrel launcher.  Untrue, I ran one this past year, but it is a D-Boys.  As such, it’s not compatible with the traditional 40mm round.  So, why does WARPAC have a boatload of NATO styled 40mm rimmed/cased cartridges?

  1. RPG-7 Warheads use a 40mm as the gas source and quick dump valve.
  2. RPG-26 single shot tubes use a 40mm as the gas source and quick dump valve.
  3. 2b14 “podnos” Mortar uses 40mm rounds both as cluster munitions (120 BB’s each!) and to launch footballs out of it.
  4. There’s other secret projects in the works that will also use 40mm grenades as the power source.

Why?  Because why re-invent the wheel? Sure they’re fiddly, and they’ve got these ball bearings in ’em and they like to pop out and occasionally roll out the barrel and get lost forever… but that’s why we have so many of ’em.  More importantly, it’s because, even with Green Gas or Propane, they can’t really be filled to unsafe limits.  Sure, getting beaned by 120 bb’s, or a nerf football, is gonna leave a mark, but the odds of it killing you are way out there compared to an unregulated CO2 bottle (storage pressure of 1200psi), or a compressed air tank (storage pressure of 3000 or 4500psi depending on investment).  For us, it ensures safety.  That’s not to say the best designed spud gun with a gauge on it, careful instruction not to exceed 80-100psi, and a blow off valve that dumps at 125 psi isn’t safe.  The opposite, that setup is quite safe too, but this all in one package also saves us from having to work out a means of getting potential energy (stored gas) into kinetic energy (a nerf football seeking out a Ferret).

With that, most 40mm grenades on the market are pretty good.  The newer ones have strong springs in ’em that “self reset” with each shot, which is handy.  For the most part, expect to have to ram something into the back of ’em to reset the valve… I prefer the back of a ballpoint pen.  In a pinch, I’ll use my pinky, but if I do enough of ’em, I end up tearing skin and bleeding.  Tascabe, being Tascabe, actually has the Moscart branded reset tool, but he owns a specialized tool for every job.  I bet he has toe nail clippers AND fingernail clippers, but I digress.

So, my to-do list:

[The photo at the top of this page shows] the WARPAC crate of grenades.  It includes various models, mostly Madbull, a few retro Moscarts (the first 40mm’s to the market), and an unknown stubby grenade that looks like it may have had a cool shell on it.  In the post office box is my stash that need maintenance from my last mortar game.  I decided to tackle the WARPAC grenades first, knowing that they haven’t been modded for reliability like mine (whereas mine just need to be cleaned, greased, and maybe the occasional bearing replaced, since the Mortar is kinda rough on ’em).

Best 40mm Grenade?

I hear some of you asking “What is the best grenade?”  Well, we all have different opinions.  Out of the WARPAC stash, I happen to like these 4:

From Left to Right:

Madbull XM204HP King BB Grenade Shell.  204 BB’s is insane capacity.  More often than not, actually shooting a full load of BB’s will give you piss poor range and performance, but whatever you hit will know it!  We use these rounds in the RPG-7 Warheads.  That means we just gas ’em up without BB’s, so the gas will push a Nerf football out of the tube and hopefully, where the gunner is aiming.

Next up is a 96 BB Moscart shell by Mosquito Molds.  They made 2 models, 24 BB and 96 BB.  Given it’s size, it holds a very good amount of gas.  Given the quantity that Tascabe owns, these also go in RPG-7 Warheads when the above shells aren’t available.

The all gold shell is a Madbull 922A1 120 BB shell.  These are my go-to shell when I used to use the STAR GP-30 underbarrel grenade launcher.  This launcher accepted NATO style shells.  As such, I own 30 of them.  18 of these shells live with the 2b14 “Podnos” Mortar.  I like these shells because they carry more BB’s than most shells, but not the excessive, performance killing number of the 204 round shell at the far left of the picture.  A compromise between range and spread, if you will.  Since these cartridges needed to push 120 bb’s down range, they have really good gas capacity.

The last shell on the list, also Madbull branded, is the PB-4.  Originally intended to launch 4 paintballs, I found every time I tried this, it would just blend the paintballs and send spray about 3 or 4 feet away from the shell.  Instead, I use the large gas capacity (the sides of the shell are a gas reservoir) and single giant hole in the middle to quickly propel Nerf Footballs via the RPG-26 single shot rocket launcher.

Now that’s not to say that there isn’t a better shell out there.  It just so happens that I have, or have experience with these, and have not been let down.  You may see other types in the group photo above, and they aren’t terrible shells either, but my main factor in shell shopping is for launching footballs.  The smaller shells are great at launching clouds of BB’s at a target, and are damn handy for starting ambushes and sewing confusion among the ranks of your target, so don’t totally discount the smaller BB launching shells.

To read part 2, click here.